I was visiting a wine
and gastronomy exhibition near Toulon. My eyes, as usually, were wondering
among the stands looking for the next wine to taste when they suddenly stopped
staring at the “Wines of Bulgaria” desk.
Bulgaria? Selling
wines in France?
Sure it shocked me;
but my insane curiosity took over the shock and pushed me to buy one bottle.
Just to taste. And, obviously, I choose the most uncommon, issued from an
autochthone grape variety I had never heard about.
The result of this
tasting? Here it is!
Domaine and vineyard
Wine Cellar SINTICA
is the new face of the Complex Experimental Station established in mid-20th
century in the town of Sandanski. The Experimental Agricultural Centre of the
Bulgarian South West gave the country’s agriculture a great deal of new
branches, variations and sorts of different cultures, but it stopped
functioning as such in the first years of the Democracy (after the Events of
1989). In 2006 - 2007 3 enthusiasts charged with the ambition to develop the
wine industry in this favourable region recreated the Experimental Station,
building the SINTICA Winery on its premises. It’s a brand new, modern Winery
Complex with the capacity of producing about 500 000 litres of wine. Sintica
winery has 325 acres .
own vineyards (175 acres
of which are created now) of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah,
Petit Verdot and Early Melnik grape using the French elite planting material.
Vineyards are located in the territory of the ancient city of Heraclea Sintica.
This is Sintica’s reference to history-it existed in the third century BC, and
very close to the picturesque and magnificent area of Rupite. 2008 is the first
year of the new history of the Winery Sintica. From the previous winery the
only thing preserved is the unique underground cellar for storage and aging of
wines, with a constant natural temperature of 14 º C and natural ventilation of
air.
The unique terroir of the Southern part of the Valley of the Struma
River is surrounded by the high mountains of Pirin, Belasitsa, Ograjden. The
climate is transitional Mediterranean. The average annual temperature in
Sandanski is 14.1 º C and average relative humidity is the lowest in the
country - 66%. The average number of days with precipitation above 1 mm is only 69-70. The
duration of sunshine in Sandanski is the largest in the country - 2506 hours.
In connection with considerable sunshine in the winter months, the snow cover
in the region remains just a few days, the winter is very mild. The region is
characterized by a relatively small number of days with fog - only 5 days per
year only during winter months. The temperature and sum of the vegetative
period is 4385 degrees Celsius, the relative humidity in July-August is 61%.
The altitude of 200
meters graces these climatic conditions and this fact
together with the highly eroded clay-sandy soils favour the cultivation of
vines to provide the grapes with very good performance.
The wine
Sintica Explosion
2008 comes from grapes harvested from a single vineyard in the selected region
of Melnik, with controlled yield, maturity and quality of fruit. They were
harvested on 27 September. The selection of the grapes is done twice, at the
vineyard and in the cellar, using a double sorting table. On the first table,
the selection of the whole grapes was made and they were mechanically separated
from the hard particles. On the second table, all the damaged and green berries
as well as the remainings of the particles from the clusters were removed.
Maceration: 25 days.
Fermentation in inox
at 25 - 30 °С.
Maturation 12 months
in French barriques.
Before the
realization it was aged for 3 months in bottles.
Melnik comes from an
hybrid; at the origin of this laboratory created grape there is the autochthone
SHIROKA MELNISHKA LOZA which, due to its own nature and characteristics, used
to give wines too much dry and acids, as he could never reach the optimal point
of maturation before the arrival of the autumn cold temperature. Therefore it
has been mixed with the main international and French grapes, producing many
different hybrids among which the Melnik 55 (or Melnik or RANNA MELNISHKA LOZA)
has been selected.
Tasting Note
Date
|
10 November 2014
|
|
|
Wine name
|
EXPLOSION
|
Vintage
|
2008
|
Nation
|
Bulgaria
|
Region
|
Struma Valley
|
AOC-DOC
|
//
|
Grape Varieties
|
Melnik
|
Serving temperature
|
17-18° C
|
Alcohol
|
14,5
|
Price (in euro)
|
15
|
|
|
Visual Examination
|
Taste analysis
|
||
Limpidity
|
Limpid
|
Body
|
Full
|
Color
|
Ruby Red
|
Balance
|
Quiet Balanced
|
Consistency
|
Quiet consistent
|
Soft sensations
|
Warm
|
Effervescence
|
//
|
Hard sensations
|
Quite Tannic – Quiet Tasty
|
|
|
Flavors intensity
|
Quite intense
|
Olfactory analysis
|
Flavors
|
Red fruits
|
|
Aroma intensity
|
Quiet Intense
|
|
|
Complexity
|
Scarcely complex
|
Finish/Persistence
|
Scarcely persistent
|
Quality
|
Quite Fine
|
Overall evaluations
|
|
Aromas
|
Red fruits, sherry, plums
|
Development
|
Ready
|
|
|
Harmony
|
Quiet Harmonious
|
Food pairing
I uncorked this wine
filled with lively curiosity towards products of a land unknown to me really.
In my imagination I expected to find myself in front of a wine
"homemade", maybe crushed grapes with their feet in one of the
parties of the country that are slowly disappearing in Italy. At cool mind,
after reading the story of this wine, the bucolic image has been wiped out and
replaced by that of a laboratory of something chemical and rigidly organized
according to the patterns of Soviet matrix.
I am convinced that
the reality is in the middle of the two and that the Sintica remains a company
that has benefited from years of studies done in the laboratory but now
attempting to retrieve that image of bucolic local tradition to make it a
vehicle for communication and marketing.
In the nose is the alcohol
that sets the guide and steal each other perfume; only after a good oxygenation
the hints of red fruits arrive. In the mouth, at taste, the wine has appeared to
me a little acid and with tannins marked and rough. I decided to try it then in
combination with Frico (typical dish of the Friuli Venezia Giulia made of
cheese and potatoes) achieving a balance wine / food that I really needed. With
the cheese of the Frico tannin softens and performs its function properly
"cleanser".
Nevertheless, I kept in
the mouth the acidity of the wine.
I drank a second
glass for tasting the next day and after 24 hours the acidity was really
strong, at least for my taste.
In both the tasting
were two common factors: a good body and a persistence in the mouth a little
short.
Advise him? Each
product in the hand of man be tested, retested, three-tested. It is important
to follow the evolution in the bottle and the ability of manufacturers to
continuously improve their creations.
I wouldn’t buy the same wine, the same vintage
and the same winery. But I remain curious to try it the other products of this
winery (or the same wine in subsequent years) and the other products of this
region.
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